Evolution of one-piece draping and geometric patternmaking in American fashion
Savannah, Ga. : Savannah College of Art and Design
Thesis (M.F.A.) -- Fashion
Savannah College of Art and Design -- Department of Fashion
Includes bibliographical references (p.68-78).
The new approach of fashion is focused on research from ancient history: not only the ancient Greeks, Romans and dressmakers of the Middle Age to the Renaissance, but also those in ancient Asia, especially Japan, used rectangular geometric patternmaking as a design for a garment’s shape throughout history. With the invention of the sewing machine in the nineteenth century, fashion expanded to the newly rich upper and middle classes. In the same period, patterns began to be used in the fashion studios, and people started to find differences between their own styles and those of other people. Fashion designers such as Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet contributed to the new fashion design approach by using large-scale geometric patternmaking and draping directly, without sketching, when making designs. Following their step, European and Japanese new generation avant-garde fashion designers started experimenting with creating large-scale geometric patternmaking in new shapes for the 1980s’ runways. During the 1930s -1950s in North America, Claire McCardell created American fashion in the form of sportswear, which combined Vionnet’s bias cutting technique with America’s democratized culture. A casual lifestyle is the American fashion identity; following Claire McCardell’s fashion contribution, contemporary American fashion designers such as Ralph Rucci focus on fashion innovation though an emphasis on geometric patternmaking. This thesis explains the causal relationship between the development of geometric patternmaking throughout history with that of culture. Moreover, this thesis continues to research the use of geometric patternmaking throughout American fashion history, a history influenced by feminism and other social issues. The social conditions of today, based on this history, influence the design experiments in this thesis collection in order to achieve unlimited freedom and exploration of creativity in the fashion making process.
PDF: 78 p. : ill
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